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How does a decadent darling on the chopping block become an unlikely underdog: the famous restaurant in New York‘s Seagram Building and its mandatory hip makeover.
Entering the Four Seasons Restaurant in the Seagram Building in Midtown Manhattan, there is a sense of that golden shimmer which feels both delicate and powerful. It is the string of a starlight bow pulled from the fully formed elegant rage of a Goddess. It is the precise tailoring of a tasteful blue trouser. It’s money. It’s power.
It also feels, deeply, strongly, defiantly unhip.
At a time in which any restaurant worth its salt in New York is looking for a found-driftwood copper-kettle twee interior design pallet, the Four Seasons is as it ever was, a place for suits.
One does not have “a rip-roaring-good-time” at the Four Seasons. One has a lovely meal with someone fancy, probably named Jeremy, who just finished a lecture tour before meeting a client to discuss downsizing.
Therefore it’s incredibly ironic that a place that is, and always has been, the physical embodiment of elite power finds itself as an underdog darling on the chopping block. Because the Four Seasons as we know it is coming to an end. Being kicked out of its building in a political and financial coup that many New Yorkers have seen as a certain kind of balance shift in the area, if not the city as a whole. […]